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Jamar Shifter - Cougar

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:03 pm
by SpyderMike
I did this modification in 2002 - time flies when you're having fun.

Please disregard the lever clutch setup as that ugly mess was later replaced with a hydraulic unit. I have not touched this Jamar setup since 2002 - and it still works.

Mike

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:06 pm
by SpyderMike
more

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 1:22 pm
by Cougar
Thanks Mike. This will is a great help. Hopefully mine will look and work as well as yours. I'll let you know if I have any other questions.

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:00 pm
by SpyderMike
My pleasure. The key is to mount the shift box solid, use a couple of good rod ends to support the rods (I have one in the cockpit and one at the transaxle mount, pass through.)
Use good U-joints, and find the sweet spot when dialing it in. You might start with the most difficult gear (that which pushes the rod motion the furthest and rotates the furthest) - so, start with reverse gear and try to set that before proceeding with gears 1-4.

I used a coupler on the furthest section of rod aft, so that I could fix the rod attachment at the box, and dial in the threaded rod near the nose cone independently.
If you don't do this, you can end up working one end against the other in your adjustments. I have an extra coupler if you end up needing it.

Have fun!
Mike

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:24 pm
by Larry Jowdy
I just added this thread to \"Tips, Tricks & Knowledge\"

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:57 pm
by SpyderMike
Yikes, if I'd known you were going to do this I would have edited it I can't type.

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:05 pm
by Larry Jowdy
I'll go back and do the editing for you... When I get done, everyone that reads it will think you have a degree from MIT (Moe's institute of Tonsilotomy)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:23 pm
by Cougar
Golly Gee Mike, you're famous now :D

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 3:53 pm
by SpyderMike
I still have my tonsils by the way - wanna see?

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:34 pm
by Larry Jowdy
thanks but NO THANKS

U joint boots

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:33 pm
by Ralphc
After you've paid for the quality u-joints, boot them. This can be done expensively http://www.drillspot.com/products/58687 ... Joint_Boot
or on the cheap using a pair of bug shift boots.
Fill one boot with grease. Slide a boot onto the shift rods at each end of the joint before the joint is attached to the rods, big ends toward the ujoint. After the joint is pinned, slide the boots together, nesting the grease filled one inside the dry one. Zip tie the boots to the rods at the small end of the boots. Done.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:25 am
by Cougar
I think the boot idea is a good one. I found the ready made boots cheaper here:
http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section ... index.html

Cost for two boots (22WZBA) including shipping was cheaper than one on the other site.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:54 am
by SpyderMike
for anyone that doesn't boot, clean and lubricate with grease regularly.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:51 am
by DannyP
So what do you recommend when replacing the u-joints?

Mine are worn, I squeezed them in a vice to take up the slack temporarily(these are the ones supplied by V in 2002).

On a Vintage, the joint under the trans is VERY close to the exhaust, I think a boot might get burned.

I found these, and originally thought this might be a \"Simon-oriented\" site! :D

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/p ... prd206.htm

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:54 am
by SpyderMike
those are certainly nice...I think I have less than $10 into mine. Buy a nice Ujoint I mean one that has very little slop.

6445K4 from McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com were what I used. Looks like they are now 12.75 each.